Plant Nutrients For Hydroponics
Submitted by slobac@gmail.com
Hydroponics is a method of indoor gardening that does not use soil as a growing medium for the plants. Plants can be grown in a water solution, or in other growing mediums such as rockwool or coir. This is an ideal method of growing plants where soil may be less than ideal for gardening, as well as places where there is no land available to garden, such as in urban areas in cities. All plants need three components in order to grow and thrive: water, light and food. Without any one of these, the plants will die. Food is vitally important to the plant, in order for it to grow and eventually reach maturity, where it will reproduce by flowering or fruiting. In terms of hydroponic gardening, food is a specialized component because of the soil-less growing factor.How do hydroponic plants eat?Plants grown hydroponically are fed using a hydroponic nutrient solution. In many hydroponic indoor gardening systems, the plant's roots are grown in water. The crown of the plant is suspended by many and various means above the water, allowing the roots to float in the fluid. In some systems, the water in which the plant roots rest is aerated using a small pump, and this allows the nutrient to be pushed all around the plant roots, where the roots can then make contact with the plant nutrients and take them in. Plant nutrients for hydroponics can also be taken up by the plant through the use of a wick. This wick-based system requires no pump.Not all hydroponic systems are water based, however. You can also grow your plants in some form of media, which could include peat moss, vermiculite, perlite, coir, rockwool, and others. The medium helps to keep the crown of the plant out of the water, yet it keeps the plant roots in contact with the hydroponic nutrients.Whether growing indoors or not, there are several types of plant nutrients required for healthy growth. The main plant nutrients for hydroponics are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Plants also need macronutrients in greater amounts than micronutrients, but nevertheless all are needed in order for any plant to thrive.In a traditional garden setting, your plants would be receiving nutrients from the soil, but without soil, plants are helpless without the gardener providing them with plant nutrients for hydroponics. If you are growing food crops and wish to garden organically, not to worry: plant nutrients for hydroponics come in the form of organic gardening supplies suitable for fruits, leafy vegetables, melons, berries, grapes and many other types of food plants suited to hydroponic gardening.
About the Author
Learn about plant nutrients for hydroponics as Susan Slobac describes the specialty requirements of indoor gardening with hydroponics.
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Ventilation For Indoor Gardens
Ventilation For Indoor Gardens
Submitted by slobac@gmail.com
Systems that provide proper ventilation for indoor gardens are key to indoor growing success. Without an abundant supply of fresh air such as your plants would receive in a natural, outdoor environment, your efforts at indoor gardening will soon end in an unpleasant, mini-ecological disaster. In this article, we will discuss some of the reasons why ventilation for indoor gardens is needed, as well as some different options.Grow Room Ventilation Systems – OverviewAs you know, in the natural world, air is virtually always in motion – even on days when the air is “still;” there is almost always a slight breeze due to minor temperature fluctuations over various terrain. When it comes to indoor growing, such grow room ventilation systems are necessary in order to replicated this natural environmental condition. These consists of mechanical devices, such as “squirrel fans” or other air-moving devices, which circulates the air from one side of the indoor growing area to the other. How Much is Needed?The amount of ventilation for indoor gardens that you will need is dependent on several factors, including the size of the space in terms of cubic feet, how much of the space is used for indoor gardening, and the time of year. Normally, the rate of air exchange is greater during the summer.A solitary single-speed fan will usually not be adequate for most indoor growing needs. You can determine this by multiplying the floor area by the height of the room; therefore, an indoor gardening room measuring 10’x 20’ in floor area times 10’ in height will need enough fan and ventilation capacity to completely refresh 2,000 cubic feet of air at least once per minute during the summer, and once every three minutes during the winter.Fan Options“Squirrel fans” and “Squirrel cage blowers” are technically known as shaded pole blowers. These are used in many applications in which heat build-up is a potential problem, such as HVAC systems and automotive climate control as well as high-end computers. They are constructed of two large rings, which are connected by as many as fifty diagonal blades; the entire assembly spins on its radius, drawing air in axially and exiting through a side opening. These are some of the most efficient fans available for grow room ventilation systems. Several companies manufacture what are known as “whisper fans,” which are particularly quiet-running. They tend to cost a bit extra, but if noise is a concern for you, these may provide the best ventilation for indoor gardens.
About the Author
An expert in hydroponics and indoor gardening, Susan Slobac covers the basics of ventilation for growing indoors. Learn about squirrel cage fans, whisper fans and other grow room ventilation systems.
Submitted by slobac@gmail.com
Systems that provide proper ventilation for indoor gardens are key to indoor growing success. Without an abundant supply of fresh air such as your plants would receive in a natural, outdoor environment, your efforts at indoor gardening will soon end in an unpleasant, mini-ecological disaster. In this article, we will discuss some of the reasons why ventilation for indoor gardens is needed, as well as some different options.Grow Room Ventilation Systems – OverviewAs you know, in the natural world, air is virtually always in motion – even on days when the air is “still;” there is almost always a slight breeze due to minor temperature fluctuations over various terrain. When it comes to indoor growing, such grow room ventilation systems are necessary in order to replicated this natural environmental condition. These consists of mechanical devices, such as “squirrel fans” or other air-moving devices, which circulates the air from one side of the indoor growing area to the other. How Much is Needed?The amount of ventilation for indoor gardens that you will need is dependent on several factors, including the size of the space in terms of cubic feet, how much of the space is used for indoor gardening, and the time of year. Normally, the rate of air exchange is greater during the summer.A solitary single-speed fan will usually not be adequate for most indoor growing needs. You can determine this by multiplying the floor area by the height of the room; therefore, an indoor gardening room measuring 10’x 20’ in floor area times 10’ in height will need enough fan and ventilation capacity to completely refresh 2,000 cubic feet of air at least once per minute during the summer, and once every three minutes during the winter.Fan Options“Squirrel fans” and “Squirrel cage blowers” are technically known as shaded pole blowers. These are used in many applications in which heat build-up is a potential problem, such as HVAC systems and automotive climate control as well as high-end computers. They are constructed of two large rings, which are connected by as many as fifty diagonal blades; the entire assembly spins on its radius, drawing air in axially and exiting through a side opening. These are some of the most efficient fans available for grow room ventilation systems. Several companies manufacture what are known as “whisper fans,” which are particularly quiet-running. They tend to cost a bit extra, but if noise is a concern for you, these may provide the best ventilation for indoor gardens.
About the Author
An expert in hydroponics and indoor gardening, Susan Slobac covers the basics of ventilation for growing indoors. Learn about squirrel cage fans, whisper fans and other grow room ventilation systems.
Choosing The Right Seed For Planting
Choosing The Right Seed For Planting
Submitted by Sharpy
Any reliable seed house can be depended upon for good seeds; but even so, there is a great risk in seeds. A seed may to all appearances be all right and yet not have within it vitality enough, or power, to produce a hardy plant. If you save seed from your own plants you are able to choose carefully. Suppose you are saving seed of aster plants. What blossoms shall you decide upon? Now it is not the blossom only which you must consider, but the entire plant. Why? Because a weak, straggly plant may produce one fine blossom. Looking at that one blossom so really beautiful you think of the numberless equally lovely plants you are going to have from the seeds. But just as likely as not the seeds will produce plants like the parent plant. So in seed selection the entire plant is to be considered. Is it sturdy, strong, well shaped and symmetrical; does it have a goodly number of fine blossoms? These are questions to ask in seed selection. If you should happen to have the opportunity to visit a seedsman's garden, you will see here and there a blossom with a string tied around it. These are blossoms chosen for seed. If you look at the whole plant with care you will be able to see the points which the gardener held in mind when he did his work of selection. In seed selection size is another point to hold in mind. Now we know no way of telling anything about the plants from which this special collection of seeds came. So we must give our entire thought to the seeds themselves. It is quite evident that there is some choice; some are much larger than the others; some far plumper, too. By all means choose the largest and fullest seed. The reason is this: When you break open a bean and this is very evident, too, in the peanut you see what appears to be a little plant. So it is. Under just the right conditions for development this 'little chap' grows into the bean plant you know so well. This little plant must depend for its early growth on the nourishment stored up in the two halves of the bean seed. For this purpose the food is stored. Beans are not full of food and goodness for you and me to eat, but for the little baby bean plant to feed upon. And so if we choose a large seed, we have chosen a greater amount of food for the plantlet. This little plantlet feeds upon this stored food until its roots are prepared to do their work. So if the seed is small and thin, the first food supply insufficient, there is a possibility of losing the little plant. You may care to know the name of this pantry of food. It is called a cotyledon if there is but one portion, cotyledons if two. Thus we are aided in the classification of plants. A few plants that bear cones like the pines have several cotyledons. But most plants have either one or two cotyledons. From large seeds come the strongest plantlets. That is the reason why it is better and safer to choose the large seed. It is the same case exactly as that of weak children. There is often another trouble in seeds that we buy. The trouble is impurity. Seeds are sometimes mixed with other seeds so like them in appearance that it is impossible to detect the fraud. Pretty poor business, is it not? The seeds may be unclean. Bits of foreign matter in with large seed are very easy to discover. One can merely pick the seed over and make it clean. By clean is meant freedom from foreign matter. But if small seed are unclean, it is very difficult, well nigh impossible, to make them clean. The third thing to look out for in seed is viability. We know from our testings that seeds which look to the eye to be all right may not develop at all. There are reasons. Seeds may have been picked before they were ripe or mature; they may have been frozen; and they may be too old. Seeds retain their viability or germ developing power, a given number of years and are then useless. There is a viability limit in years which differs for different seeds. From the test of seeds we find out the germination percentage of seeds. Now if this percentage is low, don't waste time planting such seed unless it be small seed. Immediately you question that statement. Why does the size of the seed make a difference? This is the reason. When small seed is planted it is usually sown in drills. Most amateurs sprinkle the seed in very thickly. So a great quantity of seed is planted. And enough seed germinates and comes up from such close planting. So quantity makes up for quality. But take the case of large seed, like corn for example. Corn is planted just so far apart and a few seeds in a place. With such a method of planting the matter of per cent, of germination is most important indeed. Small seeds that germinate at fifty per cent. may be used but this is too low a per cent. for the large seed. Suppose we test beans. The percentage is seventy. If low-vitality seeds were planted, we could not be absolutely certain of the seventy per cent coming up. But if the seeds are lettuce go ahead with the planting.
About the Author
Steve is the owner of http://www.articleland.co.uk and http://www.informationbooth.net. More quality articles on this topic can be found at his websites.
Submitted by Sharpy
Any reliable seed house can be depended upon for good seeds; but even so, there is a great risk in seeds. A seed may to all appearances be all right and yet not have within it vitality enough, or power, to produce a hardy plant. If you save seed from your own plants you are able to choose carefully. Suppose you are saving seed of aster plants. What blossoms shall you decide upon? Now it is not the blossom only which you must consider, but the entire plant. Why? Because a weak, straggly plant may produce one fine blossom. Looking at that one blossom so really beautiful you think of the numberless equally lovely plants you are going to have from the seeds. But just as likely as not the seeds will produce plants like the parent plant. So in seed selection the entire plant is to be considered. Is it sturdy, strong, well shaped and symmetrical; does it have a goodly number of fine blossoms? These are questions to ask in seed selection. If you should happen to have the opportunity to visit a seedsman's garden, you will see here and there a blossom with a string tied around it. These are blossoms chosen for seed. If you look at the whole plant with care you will be able to see the points which the gardener held in mind when he did his work of selection. In seed selection size is another point to hold in mind. Now we know no way of telling anything about the plants from which this special collection of seeds came. So we must give our entire thought to the seeds themselves. It is quite evident that there is some choice; some are much larger than the others; some far plumper, too. By all means choose the largest and fullest seed. The reason is this: When you break open a bean and this is very evident, too, in the peanut you see what appears to be a little plant. So it is. Under just the right conditions for development this 'little chap' grows into the bean plant you know so well. This little plant must depend for its early growth on the nourishment stored up in the two halves of the bean seed. For this purpose the food is stored. Beans are not full of food and goodness for you and me to eat, but for the little baby bean plant to feed upon. And so if we choose a large seed, we have chosen a greater amount of food for the plantlet. This little plantlet feeds upon this stored food until its roots are prepared to do their work. So if the seed is small and thin, the first food supply insufficient, there is a possibility of losing the little plant. You may care to know the name of this pantry of food. It is called a cotyledon if there is but one portion, cotyledons if two. Thus we are aided in the classification of plants. A few plants that bear cones like the pines have several cotyledons. But most plants have either one or two cotyledons. From large seeds come the strongest plantlets. That is the reason why it is better and safer to choose the large seed. It is the same case exactly as that of weak children. There is often another trouble in seeds that we buy. The trouble is impurity. Seeds are sometimes mixed with other seeds so like them in appearance that it is impossible to detect the fraud. Pretty poor business, is it not? The seeds may be unclean. Bits of foreign matter in with large seed are very easy to discover. One can merely pick the seed over and make it clean. By clean is meant freedom from foreign matter. But if small seed are unclean, it is very difficult, well nigh impossible, to make them clean. The third thing to look out for in seed is viability. We know from our testings that seeds which look to the eye to be all right may not develop at all. There are reasons. Seeds may have been picked before they were ripe or mature; they may have been frozen; and they may be too old. Seeds retain their viability or germ developing power, a given number of years and are then useless. There is a viability limit in years which differs for different seeds. From the test of seeds we find out the germination percentage of seeds. Now if this percentage is low, don't waste time planting such seed unless it be small seed. Immediately you question that statement. Why does the size of the seed make a difference? This is the reason. When small seed is planted it is usually sown in drills. Most amateurs sprinkle the seed in very thickly. So a great quantity of seed is planted. And enough seed germinates and comes up from such close planting. So quantity makes up for quality. But take the case of large seed, like corn for example. Corn is planted just so far apart and a few seeds in a place. With such a method of planting the matter of per cent, of germination is most important indeed. Small seeds that germinate at fifty per cent. may be used but this is too low a per cent. for the large seed. Suppose we test beans. The percentage is seventy. If low-vitality seeds were planted, we could not be absolutely certain of the seventy per cent coming up. But if the seeds are lettuce go ahead with the planting.
About the Author
Steve is the owner of http://www.articleland.co.uk and http://www.informationbooth.net. More quality articles on this topic can be found at his websites.
Pruning Tools - Purchasing the proper tools for the job.
Pruning Tools - Purchasing the proper tools for the job.
Submitted by Leaftech
With the arrival of spring, many home owners are beginning to take a look at the foliage which provides such a beautiful complement to their lawns and gardens with a little bit of trimming in mind. Proper pruning means that not only will your trees, shrubs, and bushes look nicer, but they will be able to grow in a more efficient matter and produce optimally as well. Many novice gardeners think that just one or two tools will be sufficient to carry out all the pruning challenge that their yards pose. This is far from the case, however. Every plant in your yard is unique, and what is more, each type of plant will require a different set of pruning tools. We will take a brief look at which types of tools might be best for you, based on your pruning task.TreesOne of the first pieces of foliage that you will want to prune in your yard once the weather starts to warm up a little are your trees. Whether you have producing fruit trees or just ornamental trees, they will probably need pruning every spring (many gardeners will argue that trees should be pruned at the end of summer as well).Trees offer the biggest challenge insofar as various pieces of equipment are concerned. For trees that are still in infancy, pruning snips such as those used for your garden shrubs will probably be sufficient. When it comes to mature trees, on the other hand, your tools will have to pack a lot more punch. Long handles on snips, as well as thicker, bigger blades, provide the leverage and the reach you need for older trees. Depending on how recently the tree has been pruned, you may find you need a saw (chain or hand held) for really thick branches. And, of course, you’ll need a ladder!ShrubsNext, take a look at your shrubs. The equipment for this task is fairly simple – in most cases, a small pair of pruning snips will do. A simple squeeze and the excess branches are off! You might spend a lot of time kneeling when pruning your shrubs, so think about a kneeling pad or other comfort-providing devices.HedgesHedges provide the most challenge when it comes to yard foliage. There are lots of branches, and you have to maintain the overall appearance of the hedge. This usually means a lot of small cuts all over the hedge. Your tool should have a lot of small “teeth”; many gardeners recommend gas powered trimmers in order to save wear on your arms (gas powered is ideal; electric cords tend to get in the way).
About the Author
Bahco is one of the leading manufacturers of professional gardening hand tools.
Submitted by Leaftech
With the arrival of spring, many home owners are beginning to take a look at the foliage which provides such a beautiful complement to their lawns and gardens with a little bit of trimming in mind. Proper pruning means that not only will your trees, shrubs, and bushes look nicer, but they will be able to grow in a more efficient matter and produce optimally as well. Many novice gardeners think that just one or two tools will be sufficient to carry out all the pruning challenge that their yards pose. This is far from the case, however. Every plant in your yard is unique, and what is more, each type of plant will require a different set of pruning tools. We will take a brief look at which types of tools might be best for you, based on your pruning task.TreesOne of the first pieces of foliage that you will want to prune in your yard once the weather starts to warm up a little are your trees. Whether you have producing fruit trees or just ornamental trees, they will probably need pruning every spring (many gardeners will argue that trees should be pruned at the end of summer as well).Trees offer the biggest challenge insofar as various pieces of equipment are concerned. For trees that are still in infancy, pruning snips such as those used for your garden shrubs will probably be sufficient. When it comes to mature trees, on the other hand, your tools will have to pack a lot more punch. Long handles on snips, as well as thicker, bigger blades, provide the leverage and the reach you need for older trees. Depending on how recently the tree has been pruned, you may find you need a saw (chain or hand held) for really thick branches. And, of course, you’ll need a ladder!ShrubsNext, take a look at your shrubs. The equipment for this task is fairly simple – in most cases, a small pair of pruning snips will do. A simple squeeze and the excess branches are off! You might spend a lot of time kneeling when pruning your shrubs, so think about a kneeling pad or other comfort-providing devices.HedgesHedges provide the most challenge when it comes to yard foliage. There are lots of branches, and you have to maintain the overall appearance of the hedge. This usually means a lot of small cuts all over the hedge. Your tool should have a lot of small “teeth”; many gardeners recommend gas powered trimmers in order to save wear on your arms (gas powered is ideal; electric cords tend to get in the way).
About the Author
Bahco is one of the leading manufacturers of professional gardening hand tools.
Landscaping Ideas with Stone That May Make Your House Look its Best
Landscaping Ideas with Stone That May Make Your House Look its Best
Submitted by sverdlow
When you own a house, you want the outside to look just as good as the inside. This is why you notice tons of people on the weekends planting lots of plants and trying their best to create their yards look amazing. but, the only problem is the reason that a lot of the great ideas for landscaping have already been done. Obviously, there is one thing that people tend to forget about whenever it comes to landscaping, and it really is one of the great things to work with, and that is stone. Landscaping stone ideas can, not only provide your yard a feel all of its own, however at the same moment, it is going to give your yard a fresh feel. There are so lots of different things which you can do with stone, it's amazing that more people don’t utilize it. The possibilities are endless, and that stone is a best way to create every yard special.To start with, you need to know that stones, not only provide an ideal walk way, but they create a good patio. Whenever people are using stones around their house, the first thing that they generally do is utilize it for a walk way. Sure it's a great idea, but it's been played out to death. It's time to arise with a fresh idea. Instead of just using it for a pathway, utilize it to build the ground of your patio. They make very flat stones that are perfect to be used as a floor. This will give your patio a very stylish, yet, very outdoor feel. Another plan you may want to consider about using is using the stones to create levels to your floors. What you do is put down stones to build a wall (not a huge wall, but a small one). Then behind the wall you fill it with dirt. Then you set your flowers. Behind those flowers you craft one more wall, but this time you build it a bit larger. Then you fill that with dirt and you repeat as several times as you want.The best idea for stones, however, is to use them when making a pond in your back yard. This is really simple to do, and just about anyone can perform it over the course of just one weekend. Not only that, but the stones around it are going to give it an incredible look. If you attach a little pump to the pond to create the pond have moving water, then it will keep things like mosquitoes away of it. There is no end to the number of things that you can accomplish with stones in your backyard. The grand news is that the majority of it can be done in a day, and stones (for the most part) do no cost that a lot to work with.
About the Author
For more excellent landscaping designs visit http://www.landscapingdesigns.org
Submitted by sverdlow
When you own a house, you want the outside to look just as good as the inside. This is why you notice tons of people on the weekends planting lots of plants and trying their best to create their yards look amazing. but, the only problem is the reason that a lot of the great ideas for landscaping have already been done. Obviously, there is one thing that people tend to forget about whenever it comes to landscaping, and it really is one of the great things to work with, and that is stone. Landscaping stone ideas can, not only provide your yard a feel all of its own, however at the same moment, it is going to give your yard a fresh feel. There are so lots of different things which you can do with stone, it's amazing that more people don’t utilize it. The possibilities are endless, and that stone is a best way to create every yard special.To start with, you need to know that stones, not only provide an ideal walk way, but they create a good patio. Whenever people are using stones around their house, the first thing that they generally do is utilize it for a walk way. Sure it's a great idea, but it's been played out to death. It's time to arise with a fresh idea. Instead of just using it for a pathway, utilize it to build the ground of your patio. They make very flat stones that are perfect to be used as a floor. This will give your patio a very stylish, yet, very outdoor feel. Another plan you may want to consider about using is using the stones to create levels to your floors. What you do is put down stones to build a wall (not a huge wall, but a small one). Then behind the wall you fill it with dirt. Then you set your flowers. Behind those flowers you craft one more wall, but this time you build it a bit larger. Then you fill that with dirt and you repeat as several times as you want.The best idea for stones, however, is to use them when making a pond in your back yard. This is really simple to do, and just about anyone can perform it over the course of just one weekend. Not only that, but the stones around it are going to give it an incredible look. If you attach a little pump to the pond to create the pond have moving water, then it will keep things like mosquitoes away of it. There is no end to the number of things that you can accomplish with stones in your backyard. The grand news is that the majority of it can be done in a day, and stones (for the most part) do no cost that a lot to work with.
About the Author
For more excellent landscaping designs visit http://www.landscapingdesigns.org
The Container Store for Smart Containers
The Container Store for Smart Containers
Submitted by marilyn
I just have to say I go all agog when I get to go to The Container Store. (We don't have one here in Utah). I know it's sad but true. I use containers all the time in every room. I can go so far as to say I love containers. They are great to store things in, contain things in, make things get magically organized and stay that way. Having said that here are two containers I suggest not buying: (I will be bold and say, don't buy them or you will be sorry).The shoe rack that look like they are made out of PVC pipe, in other words, two thin pipes on the top and two on the bottom. The reason is: the shoes just won't stay on, I finally figured out by putting them on backwards they will stay. Even then they have to be placed gingerly on the rod for them to stay. Everyone in my home finds that to be a bother. They just want to slap the shoes down and be done. Don't get me wrong—I like shoe racks of all kinds. I just found one in The Container Store catalog that holds 30 pair of shoes and fits on the back of a door. There are other over the door racks that hold fewer, there are free standing ones that work great when the shoes fit flat on them as well as some that hang from the rod inside the closet. A shoe rack of some kind is a must because the floor of the closet stays tidy and you can find your shoes when you want them.The other container I say not to buy is an accordion file. Now these look wonderful and you can sort and file by month, date and alphabetically but they are a pain. Why? Because they take two hands and the chin or shoulder to get anything in or out of them. That is a waste of time to me and I don't like wrestling with my containers.In the February/March 2008 issue of Shop Smart magazine they list four NOT SO HOT organizing tools that just add to the clutter.1. Accordion files. Enough said.2. Space bags. As a professional organizer I find the heavy black (cheaper) plastic bags work as well. Just use your vacuum to suck out the air and then tie tight. It is tons easier when two are working together. I don't recommend the space bags either as I know several people who have used them and they have split open.3. Containers with rims. "They stick out either at the top or bottom—or both—waste space. Go with the kind that sit flush against one another." Having read that I went to the store to buy more containers for my storage room. The size I wanted had rims that stuck out. I stood there arguing with myself thinking I had to have the ones without rims. I bought the ones with rims. (I didn't want to check out another store). Now the room they go in they work great because of the kind of shelf they go on.4. Cardboard Boxes. "Can weaken or be damaged with normal use, but especially in garages and other potentially damp areas". Some actually say on the box how long things can be stored in them. But if you are in a climate with humidity definite use heavy plastic containers for most things. If you are storing for a short time and with no humidity, cardboard boxes are fine. Just remember to label what is in them.Think about the containers you will be using, the purpose, the space and the length of time before deciding on what is right or wrong for you. There are a plethora of containers for all of our different wants and needs. Buy what you need and what you like, don't just buy to buy as then it becomes clutter rather than containers.Marilyn Bohn's BioMarilyn is a creative organizer who has been organizing for over 20 years. She is a member of the National Association of Professional Organizers and is working towards becoming a Certified Professional Organizer. Professionally she has been organizing homes and offices for over two years. She holds a bachelors degree in Social Work. She has reared five daughters and currently lives in Utah. Marilyn invites you to her website http://www.marilynbohn.com where you can find free organizing tips and interesting blogs and helpful articles on organizing.
About the Author
Marilyn is a creative organizer who has been organizing for over 20 years. She is a member of the National Association of Professional Organizers.She holds a bachelors degree in Social Work. She has reared five daughters and currently lives in Utah.Marilyn invites you to her website http://www.marilynbohn.com where you can find free organizing tips and interesting blogs and helpful articles on organizing.
Submitted by marilyn
I just have to say I go all agog when I get to go to The Container Store. (We don't have one here in Utah). I know it's sad but true. I use containers all the time in every room. I can go so far as to say I love containers. They are great to store things in, contain things in, make things get magically organized and stay that way. Having said that here are two containers I suggest not buying: (I will be bold and say, don't buy them or you will be sorry).The shoe rack that look like they are made out of PVC pipe, in other words, two thin pipes on the top and two on the bottom. The reason is: the shoes just won't stay on, I finally figured out by putting them on backwards they will stay. Even then they have to be placed gingerly on the rod for them to stay. Everyone in my home finds that to be a bother. They just want to slap the shoes down and be done. Don't get me wrong—I like shoe racks of all kinds. I just found one in The Container Store catalog that holds 30 pair of shoes and fits on the back of a door. There are other over the door racks that hold fewer, there are free standing ones that work great when the shoes fit flat on them as well as some that hang from the rod inside the closet. A shoe rack of some kind is a must because the floor of the closet stays tidy and you can find your shoes when you want them.The other container I say not to buy is an accordion file. Now these look wonderful and you can sort and file by month, date and alphabetically but they are a pain. Why? Because they take two hands and the chin or shoulder to get anything in or out of them. That is a waste of time to me and I don't like wrestling with my containers.In the February/March 2008 issue of Shop Smart magazine they list four NOT SO HOT organizing tools that just add to the clutter.1. Accordion files. Enough said.2. Space bags. As a professional organizer I find the heavy black (cheaper) plastic bags work as well. Just use your vacuum to suck out the air and then tie tight. It is tons easier when two are working together. I don't recommend the space bags either as I know several people who have used them and they have split open.3. Containers with rims. "They stick out either at the top or bottom—or both—waste space. Go with the kind that sit flush against one another." Having read that I went to the store to buy more containers for my storage room. The size I wanted had rims that stuck out. I stood there arguing with myself thinking I had to have the ones without rims. I bought the ones with rims. (I didn't want to check out another store). Now the room they go in they work great because of the kind of shelf they go on.4. Cardboard Boxes. "Can weaken or be damaged with normal use, but especially in garages and other potentially damp areas". Some actually say on the box how long things can be stored in them. But if you are in a climate with humidity definite use heavy plastic containers for most things. If you are storing for a short time and with no humidity, cardboard boxes are fine. Just remember to label what is in them.Think about the containers you will be using, the purpose, the space and the length of time before deciding on what is right or wrong for you. There are a plethora of containers for all of our different wants and needs. Buy what you need and what you like, don't just buy to buy as then it becomes clutter rather than containers.Marilyn Bohn's BioMarilyn is a creative organizer who has been organizing for over 20 years. She is a member of the National Association of Professional Organizers and is working towards becoming a Certified Professional Organizer. Professionally she has been organizing homes and offices for over two years. She holds a bachelors degree in Social Work. She has reared five daughters and currently lives in Utah. Marilyn invites you to her website http://www.marilynbohn.com where you can find free organizing tips and interesting blogs and helpful articles on organizing.
About the Author
Marilyn is a creative organizer who has been organizing for over 20 years. She is a member of the National Association of Professional Organizers.She holds a bachelors degree in Social Work. She has reared five daughters and currently lives in Utah.Marilyn invites you to her website http://www.marilynbohn.com where you can find free organizing tips and interesting blogs and helpful articles on organizing.
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